2 Sisters Garlic

There are many reasons why people are planting herbs in pots. This is great for creating a green space, and you can use the herbs in your food and even more medical uses.

Even if this isn’t hard to plant and maintain herbs in pots there are many people that don’t get their herbs healthy and growing. It might be because they don’t use the right potting soil.

It is essential to make sure that you are using the right potting soil for herbs. This is the only way to ensure healthy herbs that you can use.

Why is it great to plant herbs in pots?

Most people only plant herbs in an herb garden. They don’t really consider planting herbs in pots. The question is why is it great to plant herbs in pots?

Before you can know why you should use the right potting soil, you might want to know why you should consider planting herbs in pots. There are many great reasons why this is something that you should consider.

• It is a great way to have an herb garden if you don’t have any space for an actual garden. You can place the pots where you have space, and where it will get the right amount of sunlight.
• During the cold winter months, you can bring your herbs indoors to protect it against the cold. And, it will be still growing healthy.
• Growing your herbs in pots are also protecting them from weed, diseases, and insects that are able to crawl into the garden and to damage the roots of the plants.

The right type of potting soil to use

The only way that you can make sure that you are having healthy herbs in pots, you need to consider the right type of potting soil. Most of the potting soil will be great to use, but there are a couple of things that you should know.

Different types of herbs might need to have different types of potting soil. Some need to have soil that is wet all the time, while other needs soil that is draining the water fast. You should know what type of soil each herb needs, that you are going to plant in pots.

A great way to decide about the potting soil is to see how long does it take to drain the water that you just threw in. And, this can be a great way to decide which potting soil is going to work with which herb. Asking for professional assistance can also be considered.

Don’t ever use old potting soil

If you think that you can save money by using old potting soil, then you should think again. This isn’t going to work. Old potting soil doesn’t have the nutrients and fertilizer it needs to grow.

It is always better to purchase new potting soil, when you want to replant herbs or if you want to plant them in a pot. This is a mistake that many are making. They think that potting soil is still great, even if it was used before.

Fertilizing is just as important as the right potting soil

Now, you know what potting soil you should use, but there is still one thing that you should know. That even if you are using the best potting soil, you should still need to fertilize it on a regular basis. Herbs need healthy pot soil and fertilizer to grow healthy.

It is important to make sure that you are using the right potting soil for the herbs that you want to plant in a pot. Different herbs need a different type of potting soil. Using old potting soil isn’t recommended either.

Using new, and high-quality soil is essential to ensure a healthy herb. Having herbs in pots, in your home is great. Especially if you don’t have space for an herb garden. But, then you need to use potting soil in the pots.

In a nutshell:  Food garlic is generally the comprised of the prettier, smaller bulbs of the season. Seed garlic is typically the largest of the harvest’s bulbs.

Garlic meant for seed is often left to grow for a couple more weeks than garlic that will be sold as food. The purpose of this extra time is to allow for as much growth of the cloves as possible, as larger seeds (cloves) can produce larger bulbs in the next harvest.

While the variety remains unchanged by this extra maturation time in terms of flavor or genetics, the resulting bulbs are often larger and may have a “less pretty” appearance. The two most common effects in addition to clove size are discoloration of the wrapper around the bulb, and the loss of some of the wrapper layers. Also, larger bulbs often don’t last as long in the cupboard and smaller bulbs do.

NOTE: Some years, the wrappers are not affected or are minimally affected.

But in some years, the wrappers may have a less-bright-white color, and some cloves may burst through the wrappers. In particular, artichoke softnecks are more susceptible. Some hardnecks may lose wrappers and become less white as well.

This later harvest is not detrimental to the garlic as seed, and in fact, the larger seed is desirable for planting!

Some growers may choose to bleach or use other detergents to wash their wrappers so the bulb wrappers appear brighter white. We do not attempt to alter color with chemicals.

A comparison of bulb wrapper colors, using German Red as an example.
On the left is one pound of German Red, smaller-sized food-quality bulbs with white wrappers.
On the right is one pound of German Red, showing a less white wrapper color and larger size.

Examples of softnecks in a cold and wet year, which have stained wrappers and blown wrappers.
Not all years’ weather/growing conditions result in this much change, but these pictures from an extremely-wet year show it clearly.
This is not a problem for seed garlic, but definitely is an example of how seed garlic “can” be less pretty than the food bulbs.

Can Seed Garlic Be Eaten?

Yes. We obviously eat the garlic we raise. The garlic’s flavor characteristics are not changed by a longer growth period before harvest. Generally, the only difference between seed garlic and food garlic is, at times, a change in wrapper color and the loss of some wrapping. However, bulbs without wrappers probably won’t store as long in the cabinet. Therefore, the advantage of harvesting late is seed and bulb growth, but not storage length.

How To Grow Garlic

Adapted from the Iowa State University Horticulture Guide: http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM1894.pdf

How to Grow Garlic Using Sustainable Farming Practices:

Garlic (Allium sativum) is a member of the onion family (Alliaceae) along with onions, chives, shallots, leeks, and elephant garlic. Garlic is distinguished from other family members by its flat leaves and clove-like bulbs. Each garlic bulb contains several small scales or cloves enclosed in a white or purplish parchment-like sheath.

Cultivars

Garlic cultivars are classified as either hardneck or softneck.

Hardneck cultivars (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) produce a flower stalk (technically a scape) and are often termed “top-setting” or “bolting” cultivars. Flowers, if they are produced, usually abort. Bulbils (small bulblets) are produced on top of the scape. The flower stalks of some hardneck garlic are distinctly coiled. These types are referred to as rocambole or serpent garlic. Typically, hardneck garlic cultivars have 4 to 12 cloves surrounding the flower stalk. Because of the hard flower stalk, they are difficult to braid. Garlic Scapes are completely edible and considered a delicacy.  Watch our recipes page for delicious ways to prepare garlic scapes.

Softneck cultivars (Allium sativum var. sativum) are sometimes referred to as “artichoke” cultivars and do not produce a seed stalk. These cultivars are commonly used in California for commercial production. However, some softneck cultivars are suitable for cold climates. Softneck cultivars are generally more productive than hardnecks because all the energy goes to producing a bulb rather than a bulb and flower stalk. Bulbs have 10 to 40 cloves arranged in layers. Softneck garlic tends to have a much longer shelf life than hardneck garlic and typically can be stored for 6 to 8 months without significant deterioration. They also are easy to braid.

Elephant, porcelain, or Greathead garlic is actually a type of leek (Allium ampeloprasum). Elephant garlic is much larger than true garlic, often weighing as much as 1 pound per bulb. They also store well. The taste of elephant garlic is much milder than that of true garlic, but in cold climates, it can develop a sharp or bitter taste.

Preparation of the Garlic Bulbs/Cloves

Open your garlic box the same day it is received! This will help prevent mold/mildew/rot, as it will allow the garlic to continue drying. Place the garlic in a cool location away from sunlight as you wait for the proper planting time.

Up to 2 days prior to planting (but not longer), “shuck” the garlic. Remove the outer husks and separate the cloves, leaving the skins on the individual cloves. Store the cloves in a cool location away from sunlight.

One helpful step to help avoid disease is to shuck your garlic away from your field/garden, so the dirt particles and shucks can not contaminate your soil. This may be an unnecessary precaution, but it’s an easy one to do. Therefore, we recommend shucking garlic away from your field/garden.

Dipping/soaking cloves: more to come here in the near future…

Planting

Planting Garlic: Garlic grows best in well-drained, fertile soils that are high in organic matter. Misshapen bulbs may result when garlic is grown in heavy, clay soils. Incorporating compost or well-rotted manure into heavy, clay soils can be beneficial. The optimum soil pH for garlic is between 6 and 7. Before planting, soils should be well tilled to provide a loose growing bed for bulb development. Because garlic plants do not produce true seeds, garlic is grown by planting cloves. Garlic cloves can be purchased at garden centers or from mail-order companies, through direct purchase online from growers is typically more economical.

Planting cloves from garlic purchased at the grocery store is not recommended because these are usually softneck cultivars that are mainly adapted to mild climates. Additionally, most grocery store garlic has been exposed to chemicals that postpone or prevent growth for longer shelf life.

Cloves should be planted in fall in most of the US (October to early November) or early spring (late March to early April). Spring-planted garlic will not likely achieve the same size as fall-planted garlic. Contact your local Extension Office or state Extension for information about planting times specific to your area.

Fall-planted garlic should be mulched with a 4- to 6-inch layer of weed-seed-free straw to help prevent winter injury. In early spring, move the straw to between the rows to allow the garlic foliage to emerge and moisture to evaporate from the soil. The mulch helps control weeds during the growing season.

Late spring planting results in smaller bulbs at harvest.

Plant cloves with the pointed side up, root end down. When planted upside down, misshapen bulbs often develop. Plant cloves about 1 inch deep, or contact your Extension Office for recommended depth for your climate/zone.

Hardneck (top-setting) garlic cultivars also may also be grown from the bulbils or bulblets. Plant the bulblets in early spring and allow to grow in the same area for 18 months. By the end of the first season, the bulblets will form “rounds” or unsegmented bulbs. Left undisturbed, they will form a cluster of cloves by the following summer.

Spacing

Place cloves 3 to 5 inches apart within the row. Rows should be spaced 18 to 24 inches apart.

Fertilizing

We suggest that you contact your local agricultural extension office for recommendations specific to your growing area. A list of offices, by county, can be found here: http://www.clemson.edu/extension/county/ .

Garlic requires more fertilizer than many vegetables. Incorporate 1 to 2 pounds of an all-purpose garden fertilizer (10-10-10) per 100 square feet before planting. One month after planting apply an additional pound per 100 foot of row in a band 3 to 4 inches from the base of the plants. Avoid nitrogen applications after the first week of May because bulbing may be delayed. Soil tests should be taken before planting to determine phosphorus and potassium needs. 

If you prefer to garden naturally, try fertilizing with blood meal, bone meal, and/or fish meal.

Maintenance

Water plants once per week during dry weather. Stop irrigating in late June to allow the foliage to yellow and die before harvest. Like an onion, garlic has a shallow root system. Weeds should be removed carefully to avoid disturbing or pulling up the garlic bulbs with the weeds. Mulches help control weeds and conserve soil moisture.

Potential Problems

Most garlic diseases are either soil- or set-borne and usually can be controlled with proper rotation and planting disease-free sets. Before planting, check each clove for signs of disease. Discard any infected cloves or bruised cloves because they may decay in the soil. Many garlic cultivars are susceptible to yellow tips.

The development of yellow tips early in the season (before bulbing) may drastically reduce yields. It is usually a sign of water stress, nutrient deficiency, or disease. Insects are not a major problem for garlic production, though a few destructive pests do exist.

Harvest and Storage

When is it best to harvest garlic?  In late spring/early summer, the garlic begins to change from a green onion-looking plant to forming bulbs. The greatest part of the size develops in the last month before harvest.

Spring garlic looks similar to green onions. It has not yet begun to form cloves in mid/late April in Iowa. Spring garlic can be eaten, but of course, won’t allow you to produce as large of a quantity as if it matures before harvest. Still, it is another unique way to enjoy your garlic!

Carefully dig garlic bulbs when the foliage starts to turn yellow and die, most often when half of the leaves are dying. Yellowing normally occurs between June and September (varying by climate/zone). Dry or cure the bulbs in a warm, well-ventilated, and shaded location for at least 2 to 3 weeks.

After drying, remove the foliage 1 inch above the bulbs or use the foliage to braid the bulbs together. Place the bulbs in a mesh bag or open crate and store where it is cool (32–40°F) and dry (65–70% relative humidity). Softneck types can be stored for 6 months or more, whereas hardneck types may only store for approximately 3-5 months. More about how to store garlic here.

For more information

If you have any questions, feel free to contact us!

Additional information also is available from these Web sites, and also your state’s Extension web site:

ISU Extension Publications http://www.extension.iastate.edu/pubs

ISU Horticulture http://www.hort.iastate.edu

All garlic seed for sale is supplied by our small micro-farm in Elgin Oregon – Greif’s Gourmet Garlic!